A Look at SLO County’s Biodynamic® Vineyards
It’s hard to argue with the Merriam-Webster Dictionary, but some just might, given its definition of “biodynamic adj (1939): of or relating to a system of farming that uses only organic materials for fertilizing and soil conditioning.”
If only it were that simple. In fact, the philosophy and concepts behind Biodynamic® are far more complex and can even cause considerable eye rolling and head shaking. Admittedly, a system of practices that embraces lunar cycles, the benefits of “weeds,” and the importance of knowing your fruit days from your root days might raise eyebrows, so let’s take a closer look as it applies to Chequera Vineyard in Paso Robles and AmByth Estate in Templeton, the only two local vineyards certified by the Demeter® Association USA, the American gatekeeper of Biodynamic® standards.
What is Biodynamic®?
The overall concept began with the work of Dr. Rudolf Steiner, in particular at a 1924 conference in Germany where many of the system’s still relevant fundamentals were developed. Volumes have been written about Dr. Steiner’s work and the Biodynamic philosophy, but at its heart, Biodynamic farming considers every inch of the farm – or vineyard, or backyard garden – not only in the context of its specific location, but also within its position to the community, the earth, and the entire cosmos. As the Demeter® Association’s website notes, “What distinguishes a Demetercertified
Biodynamic farm from a certified organic farm is that, in its entirety, a Demeter Biodynamic farm is managed as a living organism.”
In the reality of day-to-day land management, this actually translates into concrete practices based on both scientific and codified anecdotal evidence. Biodynamic farming puts supreme importance on healthy, well-balanced soils, so it requires the use of specific “soil preparations” such as manure, yarrow, and chamomile to promote plants’ root growth, nutrient uptake, nitrogen stabilization, etc. Beyond that, the approach becomes more site specific.
Again, quoting from the Demeter website, “… this requires a holistic farming system that is minimally dependent on imported inputs for its survival, but instead arises from within the living dynamics of the farm itself. Demeter/Aurora certification requires that as much as possible a farm be regenerative rather than degenerative. An important environmental value of Biodynamic farming is that it does not depend on the mining of the earth’s natural resource base. Instead it emphasizes contributing to it. As such, it is a farming philosophy that results in one of the lightest carbon footprints of any agricultural method.”
Chequera Vineyard and Vinfuzion With part of it rising into scenic terraces above Highway 46 West, the Chequera Vineyard on the property of Bruce and Sandy Shomler is one of the most visually distinctive vineyards in San Luis Obispo County. It also has an intriguing history.
Many in the wine world know Randall Grahm and his Bonny Doon label, with which he forged a distinctive niche in the 1980s by combining brave irreverence with quality bottlings of then little-known varietals. However, in 1989, Grahm’s estate vineyard in Santa Cruz was succumbing to Pierce’s Disease, a fatal vine disease, so he turned to a friend for help in preserving the vines’ lineage.
“I’d gone to school with Randall,” said Chris Couture (a partner in Chequera with his brother Steve Couture and the Shomlers), so he agreed to take estate cuttings for the Paso property. Along with Juan Rendon, still the vineyard manager, the property was always farmed with an organic emphasis, but in 2004, “Randall really started pushing us towards Biodynamic,” said Couture.
Chequera was Demeter® certified in 2007, and though it was always a stellar vineyard, Couture noted that “the last two vintages have been outstanding.” He admitted that “parts of Biodynamic are hard to get your head around, but certainly the moon must have an effect – if it can move oceans, it can certainly move sap in grapevines.”
Fruit from Chequera goes to several wineries, including Bonny Doon, but one label – Vinfuzion – takes the holistic approach to a whole new level. “Proprietor Vin-Alchemist” Pamela Pietri founded Vinfuzion in 2004, relying on her experience as an acupuncturist and herbalist to create unique, beautifully balanced wines that are infused with herbs and/or fined with crystals. For example, the lush 2007 Archangel Viognier is infused with Angelica, a botanical associated with longevity, while the classic 2006 Om Syrah is infused with Mimosa flowers for serenity and calm.
It needs to be said, however, that it would take a sharp palate to detect the infused flavors “because I would never want to step on this gorgeous fruit,” said Pietri.
AmByth Estate
When Phillip Hart and Mary Morwood-Hart bought their Templeton property in 2001/2002, they knew they wanted to start a vineyard and “weren’t going to use chemicals,” said Phillip Hart. When they began planting their 20 acres of vineyards in 2004, however, he admitted that “I’m not sure I even knew what Biodynamic was.” That changed after an encounter with Philippe Armenier, one of the country’s leading Biodynamic agriculture consultants.
Discussions with Armenier touched a chord, and Hart began to realize that “a lot of feeling goes into all this, and when you start to read about it, it all makes a lot of sense. Organic can be just passivity, not necessarily activity. Biodynamic involves preparations, thought processes – you’re developing the entire farm, bringing the plants into balance so they can do the right thing themselves.”
Having begun the Biodynamic journey for their vineyard, which was certified in 2006, the Harts have since extended it to their entire 42-acre estate, aptly named AmByth, the Welsh word for “forever.” The property’s living matrix includes free-range chickens, olive trees, and a family garden, all of which will soon be joined by beehives, cows, and more fruit trees. The Harts have even sown seeds for plants that most gardeners dread: stinging nettles and dandelions.
“We want to grow our own soil preparations, and it’s great if the dandelions spread – we love to eat the greens,” said Hart. “Our continual goal is to make the property alive. Instead of trying to kill problems, you work to make the life forces balance out. It’s still farming, we all have the same problems – with Biodynamic you just think of it differently. You want to be proactive, always in the form of a catalyst.”
Essentially the work is never done, but – if you’ve embraced the process – it’s hardly a Sisyphean situation. Hart recalled that “at the beginning, it seems too much, you try to do too much, but it has to be continually evolving, and eventually you just start thinking differently.”
The Harts have also chosen to make certified Biodynamic wine, which means they must employ such practices as using native yeasts. Such methods seem risky to many winemakers, but the unfined and unfiltered AmByth Estate bottlings have proven to be premium wines. All are Rhône wines except for the distinctive Tempranillo/Sangiovese blend, which exhibits elegant structure and classic fruit notes.
Is Biodynamic® for Everyone?
Given issues of commitment, scale and economics, the short answer is no, at least in the near term. However, given its respect for the land and its potential impact on carbon emissions, Biodynamic® farming is definitely worthy of serious consideration.
For more information …
• Biodynamic Farming & Gardening Association: www.biodynamics.com
• Demeter Association USA: www.demeter-usa.org
• Vinfuzion: www.vinfuzion.com
• AmByth Estate: www.ambythestate.com
The lineup of current AmByth Estate releases. Photo by K. Budge.
Katy Budge is a freelance food and wine writer based on California’s Central Coast. She has written enthusiastically about various aspects of the local food community for many years, and also “explores the culture of cuisine” on her website, www.CasaFestiva.com.
